Improvement in processes of ormawienting skirts



Paiented May 1s, 1875.`

2 www fly l' THE GRAPHIC C0.PHOTOLITH.39 8:43 PARK PLACEJLY.

JACOB SGIOENHOF, 0F NEW YORK, N. Y.

IMPROVEMENT IN PROCESSES OF ORNAMENTING SKIRTS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 163,335, dated May 18, 1875; application filed April 3, 1875.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JACOB SoHonNHon, of the city, county, and State of N ew York, have made an invention of a new and useful Manufacture of Ladies7 Skirts, and that the following is a full, clear, and exact description and specification of the same.

Previous to my invention ladies skirts have been made with a body of felt or woolen cloth of one color, and have been ornamented by quilting or stitching cloth, silk, or other material of a different color upon the said body in pattern-lines, such ornamental cloth being applied either in facing bands or in gures previously cut into shape.

Skirts ornamented in the above manner require a large amount of time and labor for their manufacture, by reason of the great extent of pattern-lines which have to be stitched, and the objectof my invention is to obtain the ornamental effect of skirts with quilted facingbands at a less cost. To this end my invention consists of a new manufacture of skirts, consisting of the combination of the body of the skirt with an ornamental facing-band by means of an adhesive material, and by indentation in the form of a quilted pattern, and with or without ornamentation by embossing in colors. My invention consists, further, of the process of producing banded ornamental articles resembling those with band-quilted work by overlaying a portion only ofthe body of the fabric with a coating or sheet of adhesive material, such as india-rubber, and with a band of facing material, and subjecting the whole to heat and the pressure of an indentingdie.

In order that the invention may be fully understood I have represented in the accompany ing drawing a segment of a skirt embodying my invention, and I will proceed to describe the same, and the mode of manufacturing it.

Figure l represents a face view of said segment. Fig. 2 represents a cross-section of a fragment thereof greatly enlarged.

The body of the skirt is made, by preference, of two or three wedge-formed segments, M, which are ornamented by means of a compound band, A B C D, the lower portion of which ef D G presents the appearance of silk or other facing material quilted in an ornamental pattern, and the upper portion A B fc of which is embossed in color. These segments are sewed together at their longer sides Gr C H D to form the body.

The mode in which I have produced these segments is as follows: A die of brass or steel is made of the form and size ofthe ornamental band A B C D. A portion of the surface of the said die, corresponding in extent with the portion e f D C of the band, is crossed by toothed or serrated ridges corresponding in pattern with the depressed lines of the ornamental design to be produced upon the skirt. The remainder ot' the surface of said die is engraved or hollowed out to correspond with the colored figures of the embossed portion A B- fe of the ornamental band, leaving the portions of the surface of the die between the hollows or depressions dat.

The material for the body of the skirt is cut into the form of the segment G C D H, and the portion ef D C of this segment, which is to be ornamented with a silk band, having the appearance ot' being quilted, is overlaid with a coating ofthe adhesive material, tissue india rubber being the adhesive material which I have used with successl for this purpose. The band of silk or other facing material, previously cut to the proper form, is next laid upon the adhesive material, and, in order that the several parts may be retained with certainty in their proper places during the subsequent manipulations, I prefer to conneet them by two lines of machine stitching, the one h h, near the upper edge of the facingband, and the other a n, near its lower edge. The portion of the die which corresponds with the embossed portion A B fe, of the ornamental band, is charged with color in the usual manner practiced with such dies, and the segment, prepared as above mentioned, is laid face downward upon the said die. A piece of thick felt, or other yielding material, or a counter-die of metal, wood, or hard rubber, is next laid upon the back of the segment, and the whole is subjected to pressure in a heated embossing-press. In this operation the heat of the press is communicated to the die, and thence to the prepared segment. rIhe embossing portion of the die transfers the coloring material to the segment, so as to produce the embossed portion A B f e of the ornamental band, and the indenting-ridges of the other portion of the die indent the faced portion of the segment in the pattern formed by them, leaving the portions of the fabric between the indentations in a raised condition, so that the fabric presents a puffed appearance between the indented lines the same as that produced by quilting. The heat and pressure also cause the adhesive material to soften and unite the facing material with the segment, and the indented pattern is fixed by the stiffening of the adhesive material incidental to its cooling after pressure. The entire ornamentation of' the facing-band of a segment of the skirt is thus completed at one operation, and as the die has a large surface, patterns with vlarge figures of great intrieacy can be produced by its use. If the f'acin g fabric is to be secured to the body throughout its entire surface, the spaces between the ridges of the indentingdie should be shallow, so that the surfaces between the ridges press the facing against the cover or counter-die, but it is preferred, in some cases, to make the ridges of the die so prominent that its depressions do not press the portions of the facing between the patternridges sufficiently to cause it to adhere to the body, the effect of which is to permit these portions to puff out more prominently. After the segments are made, two or more of them are combined into a skirt by sewing their longer edges G C H D to each other, but if a press of the requisite dimensions is provided, the entire body ofthe skirt may be iliade in one piece, which is extended flat for the application of the facing-band, and then has its radial edges connected by sewing, or

the segments may be sewed. together with the exception of the closing seam, and the' eX- tended sheet thus produced may be prepared and subjected to the action of the die.

lf the skirt is to be ornamented so as to present the appearance of a quilted facingband alone, then the die is made of the eX- tent of the facing-band, and with a surface of indentinglridges, without an embossing portion.

rlhe faced segment, previously prepared as above stated, is placed upon the die and subjected to the action of heat and pressure, as above described.

After the ornamented segment has been produced, as above stated, it may be further ornamented by prin ting it in one or more colors by means of one or more printing-blocks.

The faced skirt produced as above described presents the appearance of one with a highly-ornamental band produced by quilting with lines of stitches, and, if the entire invention is used, a part of it is ornamented additionally by being embossed in colors. Moreover, as the effect of the adhesive material is to strengthen the facing material, a facing material of much lighter quality can he used in my system of manufacture'than when the quilting is done by stitching, and with equal effect.

Having thus described my new manufacture, andthe processes of producing the same, I declare that Iam aware that previous to my invention garments without facing bands have had their surfaces embossed so as to resemble quilting; also, that garments made of one material have been ornamented with figures and trimmings of other material, caused to adhere to them by means of an adhesive material and pressure with flat-irons; also, that wadding has been cemented to the back of a fabric, and then the face of the fabric has been embossed in imitation of quilting. Therefore I do not claim the invention of any one of the above manufactures, or of the processes of producing them.

I claim as my invention- 1. The garment having its body combined with a facing-band by means of adhesive material and indentation in an ornalnental pattern, so that the outer surface of' the garment exposes a facing different from the body and having the appearance of being quilted upon the body of the garment, the same being a new article of manufacture.

2. The garment having its body combined with a facing-band by means of adhesive material and indentation in an ornamental pattern resembling quilting, and also :embossed in color, so that the outer surface of the garment exposes a facing different from the body and having the appearance of being quilted upon the body of the garment; and also embossed colored figures, the same being a new article of manufacture.

3. The process, substantially as before set forth, of producing garments with ornamental facing-bands having the appearance of quilted work, by overlaying aportion only of the face of the body of the garment-with adhesive vmaterial and the facing-band, and then indenting the faced portion in ornamental lines by heat and pressure, so as to simultaneously cement the facing to the face of the garment and indent it in ornamental lines.

4. The process7 substantially as before set forth, of producing garments with ornamental facing-bands, partly embossed in color and presenting the appearance of quilted Work, by overlaying a portion only of the face of the body of the garment with adhesive material and a facing-band, and then both embossing a portion of the face of the garment and indenting the faced portion in ornamental lines by heat and pressure, so as to simultaneously cement the facing to the face of the garment,

emboss it in color, and indent it in ornamental lines.

-Witness my hand this 31st day of March, A. D. 1875.

JACOB SCHOENHOF. Witnesses:

GHARLEs H. KrrcHEL, SAML. G. SMITH. 

